New restaurant fills need, stomachs

When my dining companion and I walked into Simply Southern Bistro Wednesday night, we didn't expect a crowd. After all, it was the new restaurant's first evening open. Instead, there were few vacant tables, and four were occupied by people we knew.
And everyone had nothing but praise for Chef Jeff Dennis' food.
We were soon to find out why.
Not starving, I ordered the smaller portion of prime rib, which the Bistro calls the "Queen Cut." The queen in question must be Victoria or Harvey Fierstein, the cut was that big! The King Cut, I'm sure must be adequate for Henry VIII.
It was also tender, medium rare, juicy, and well, just delicious. The au jus was good, too, but the beef didn't need any additional flavor. Dennis' blend of herbs and spices for his rotisserie meats didn't overpower the beef itself, but served to enhance the taste.
I had sauteed spinach and marinated cucumbers and tomatoes on the side. Each was tasty, and the spinach was especially well seasoned, earthy, with hints of sesame oil, one of my personal favorite flavor enhancers.
My companion pronounced his pan seared duck breast "delicious" and "succulent," and his rice pilaf tender and flavorful (He also had the spinach).
The Bistro's wine list is short, but good, with moderately priced selections.My Sterling Vintner's Collection Merlot was smooth, deep, fruity with a slight oak overtone.
The Mirassou pinot noir was a good match for my companion's duck breast. A light, easy-drinking wine with just a little depth, but pleasant fruity flavor and a slight tang.
With the addition of fabric tablecloths and napkins at night, Simply Southern Bistro will be a standout among Sumter's finer restaurants. The food is seriously good, the service was excellent, and the medium-sized menu means Dennis has time to cook each dish to perfection.
We can hardly wait to go back to try his pork tenderloin, fish and grits, salmon, Low County Crab Cakes and more, especially the Bacon Pimiento Cheese Burger for lunch. The Crazy Burger, with fried egg, is intriguing, too.
Simply Southern Bistro is located at 65 W. Wesmark Boulevard, across from Simpson Hardware. Call (803) 469-8502.